Getting to Bahçesaray means crossing one of Turkey's highest mountain passes, which makes tonight's plans feel easy by comparison. This is walnut country, stream country, home to an unhurried little market. Nobody hands you a schedule here — the evening unfolds at its own pace. Go with it: a loop through the market, tea by the water, a small surprise in between. Picking that surprise is the dice's job; you just have to roll.