Gürpınar is enormous on the map and modest on the venue list — it's one of Turkey's largest districts, so there's plenty to see and not much to sit in. Still, anyone in a hurry is in the wrong place among these highlands, streams, and the shadow of an old castle. The program here is simple: fresh air, a long road, plenty of scenery. What fills the gaps isn't up to you — roll the dice and find out.