You're at Van's easternmost edge — walk much farther and someone's going to ask for your passport. Saray sits right at the border crossing, a district that goes about its own business between two countries. Evenings here aren't flashy, but they're genuine: familiar faces in the market, border stories over tea. Don't chase an elaborate plan — weighing every option is exhausting, like clearing customs. Roll the dice, stamp whatever comes out, and start your evening there.